Thursday, 1/14/10: Smiggle & Art Gallery of New South Wales

Last night’s thunderstorms continued on and off until early morning. We woke up to cool temps and overcast sky. Took it easy so the girls could do their homework and projects, and then went to Smiggle, an Australian stationery store chain catering to pre-teens and teens with very colorful paper products and accessories. The Ellises had brought us miscellaneous Smiggle products over the years, and Laura and Elena were excited to see a Smiggle store for themselves. The Smiggle range is rather limited, but every product comes in a variety of trendy colors such as pink, purple, apple green, cyan blue and black. I bought four large paper clips for myself, not because I have a real need for them but because they were the cheapest items in the store at AU$0.50 each. The girls got a few things each; luckily we were able to steer them away from the more expensive items :-).

After lunch, Heather and I went off on another solo outing. Bill not only graciously agreed to watch Laura and Elena but he also took us to the Art Gallery of New South Wales in the CBD. The Art Gallery of New South Wales is a very large art museum displaying all kinds of things, but it was their collections of Australian and aboriginal art that Heather and I were mostly interested in. The paintings of the early settlement period by European immigrants were interesting and often quite beautiful, especially the romanticized scenes of a pre-colonial Eden, but what fascinated me the most was the aboriginal art, ranging from bark paintings to burial poles and more modern art on canvas. The dot painting style arising from the Papunya Tula Art Movement of the early 1970s was a particular highlight. I don’t profess to have even a rudimentary understanding of the symbology and iconography, but many of the works we saw have such an innate beauty that I was able to relate to them on a purely aesthetic level.

We also took in the collections of early Japanese and Chinese art, but soon after we reached sensory overload and decided to head outside. The Art Gallery of NSW is located on the edge of the Royal Botanic Garden so Heather I decided to explore some areas we hadn’t seen yet, including the palm grove, one of the oldest parts of the Royal Botanic Garden.

 

As we were enjoying the many tropical and subtropical plants, we couldn’t help but notice what we initially assumed was the squawking of many hundreds of birds. A look up into the trees revealed something else entirely. What we had thought were birds were in fact, hundred and hundreds of flying foxes—large fruit bats weighing as much as 2 lbs with a wing span that exceeds 3 ft. They roost in the many palm trees in the palm grove and in other areas of the Royal Botanic Garden, and at night venture out in search of fruit and pollen. In fact, these were the bats we had seen a couple of days on our walk across the Harbor Bridge. Seeing these bats hanging upside down from tree branches—some completely still, others twitching, others flying about and screeching—was a completely surreal experience, reminiscent of a bad horror movie of the 70s. What made things even more immediate was the smell—or should I say stench!—of all the bat poop.

After our close encounter with the flying foxes, we walked back to The Rocks and did some window-shopping, marveling again at the high prices of opal jewelry and aboriginal art. Instead of retracing our steps back to the Circular Quay train station, we ended up walking across the Harbor Bridge for the second time this week. The sky was still overcast so the light was too flat to take pictures of the Opera House, but it was still a fantastic experience walking on one Sydney’s best-known landmarks enjoying perfect views of one of the most beautiful structures in the entire world!

From Milsons Point we again took the train to Artarvon, our “home station”, feeling like veteran Sydney commuters by now. Sydney is a large city, but getting to know your way around the central core isn’t difficult, and the public transportation system is excellent, with many trains, ferries and busses connecting the suburbs to the CBD.

Wednesday, 1/13/10: Blue Mountains

The thunderstorm last night went on for quite a while. It was still in full force when Heather and I went to slept, but this morning it looks like it never happened. The weather is sunny, with some puffy clouds. Still fairly cool and a bit of a breeze—lovely. I wish I could bottle this perfect weather moment and unleash it as needed when it’s 90+ degrees again and humid as Hades.

Today’s outing is to the Blue Mountains, a huge area of rugged tablelands, sheer cliffs, raging waterfalls and inaccessible valleys densely covered with eucalyptus forests. The Greater Blue Mountains Area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising seven national parks. It’s located a couple of hours west of central Sydney.

The drive through the western suburbs of Sydney on the Great Western Highway took us by the site of the 2000 Olympic Games. The stadium is huge; it held over 110,000 people during the games but Bill said that the stadium was modified in later years and now doesn’t hold quite that many people. It’s still used extensively for sports and other events. We also saw the Sydney Ikea store, which seems immense; bigger than our West Sacramento Ikea for sure. Other than that, there wasn’t much that distinguished one suburb from the next. I’d hate to live that far away from my job, but the situation isn’t any different in U.S. metropolitan areas.

Once we reached the Blue Mountains, my enjoyment of the drive was marred a little by the endless construction that’s going on to widen the road. Apparently the Blue Mountains are very popular with Sydney residents and tourists alike, and the existing 2-lane road infrastructure isn’t enough to cope with the number of vehicles. Small towns that would otherwise have been enjoyable to drive through and maybe walk around in are now large construction sites with road workers, temporary traffic lights and an ugly, dusty appearance. It’s all temporary but for now, the area isn’t looking its best.

Eventually we reached Katoomba, with a population of about 7,500 by far the largest town in the Blue Mountains. Our destination was the Three Sisters, the most famous rock formation in the Blue Mountains. I had expected a winding mountain road which eventually ends at a scenic viewpoint, but the reality is that you drive through a residential section of Katoomba and, wham!, the road ends and the viewpoint is right there, at the edge of town.

We parked our car a little ways away from the viewpoint to avoid paying for parking (outrageous at AU$3.80 for the first hour, and AU$4.40 for each additional hour; more even than in Sydney) and dragged our overheated bodies along a dusty residential street. It’s ironic that we chose today to go to the Blue Mountains because we thought we would escape the Sydney heat; the temperature in Katoomba according to the outdoor thermometer of our rental van was 33°C (92°F). While the humidity was still higher than what we’re used to, it wasn’t as humid as in Sydney.

The view was absolutely spectacular. The Three Sisters—Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo—feature prominently in a legend that talks of three sisters who fell in love with three men from a neighboring tribe, but marriage was forbidden by tribal law. Battle ensued, and the sisters were turned to stone by an elder to protect them, but he was killed in the fighting and no one else could turn them back.

Unfortunately, mid-day is not the best time to photograph the Three Sisters (sunset seems to be the best time of day, judging from the postcards I saw at the Visitor Center). But since that’s the only opportunity I had, here’s my meager photographic haul.

We were all exhausted so we volunteered to part with our money for some outrageously priced “gelatto” (somehow using the Italian word is always an excuse for charging more). Here’s best friends Sophie and Laura enjoying their ice cream and posing in front of a giant Christmas koala.

 

After leaving Katoomba, we decided to swing by Wentworth Falls but unfortunately, the actual waterfall was practically dry. I’ve seen pictures that looked spectacular, but mid-summer is definitely the wrong time of year.

However, what I did enjoy were the views across the Jamison Valley. The deep sandstone cliffs and the eucalyptus forests (blue gum) that seem to go on forever are amazing. I’ve seen so many eucalyptus trees by now, and yet I can’t seem to get enough of them. Gum trees are uniquely Australian, and I like everything about them: their bark (or lack thereof), their stature, their open growth, and of course the heavenly smell of their leaves.

If it had been just the adults (i.e. Heather, Bill and me), we might have explored other areas and trails in the Blue Mountains, but the kids were so exhausted that we decided to head back towards Sydney.

We were able to check off one of the remaining items on my must-see list, the Anzac Bridge. When people think of bridges in Sydney, the invariably think of the Harbour Bridge, which is stunning. However, I find the Anzac Bridge, which I had glimpsed in the distance on several occasions, to be just as beautiful. It spans Johnstons Bay between the suburbs of Pyrmont and Rozelle near the Sydney Central Business District (CBD). I don’t know who designed it, but it reminded me strongly of Santiago Calatrava’s designs.

 

Driving through the CBD on the Western Distributor (with intrepid Bill Ellis at the wheel), I was busy snapping impressionistic shots of reflections of and in high rises. I can’t remember the names of the buildings, but I love the patterns.

Finally we reached the eponymous Sydney Harbour Bridge, truly one of the most beautiful bridges I’ve ever crossed. Heather and I walked across it last night, but unfortunately the view of the bridge from the pedestrian lane isn’t as impressive as it is from the car lanes. Here are two rather abstract/geometrical images that I particularly like.

 

6:26pm now, and the weather is gray and overcast and probably in the mid-70s. I’m loving it! Bill and I swung by the bottle shop to pick up more beer and wine. I was determined to try some wines from the Hunter Valley, just north of Sydney, an area Bill and Katrina, wine aficionados that they are, aren’t very familiar with. I picked up a bottle of 2009 Tempus Two verdelho, and I thought it was excellent. Tropical notes of grapefruit and guava, with a very pronounced citrus finish. VERY nice. I’ll be taking a bottle or two home.

Tuesday, 1/12/19: Cremorne Point, evening outing to the City

This morning we went for a walk around Cremorne Point, a well-to-do harborside suburb on the lower North Shore. The first part of the walk was through a park-like setting, with views of the Central Business District across the harbor. The smaller inlet in the immediate foreground is called Shell Cove.

 

After a little while, the Harbor Bridge and the Opera House came into view. It was great sitting there on the rocks taking in the view.

The more we walked, the less manicured the vegetation became. This chunk of land closest to the actual point (Robertson Point) is called Cremorne Point Reserve and protects the native flora and fauna, including Sydney red gum (agophora), banksia and other endemic trees and plants.

At Robertson Point, a metal ladder attached to the sandstone cliffs leads down to the rocks from where you have an even more stunning view of the skyline. The sandstone cliffs provide nice framing.

 

On the left is a view of the Central Business District and the Opera House; on the right is the small lighthouse at Robertson Point.

After dinner, Heather and I struck out on our own for a night on the town. Bill drove us to Milsons Point on the north side of the Harbor Bridge, and we took a leisurely stroll across the bridge. It took us almost an hour because I stopped so many times. As the sun was setting, scores and scores and large bats appeared seemingly out of nowhere and started flying over the bridge—and us. These were very large bats, the size of seagulls, certainly larger than what we see at home.

Heather and I walked through The Rocks down to Circular Quay and around to the Opera House. By the time we got to the Opera House, it was completely dark. The views across the harbor to the bridge and Luna Park just on the other side were simply stunning, as evidenced by the many compact cameras furiously firing their flashes.

  

I love the way the Opera House is light at night—not too much and not too little, just right for photography. Here are some of my favorite photos from tonight’s outing:

 

 

     

We took the train back to Atarmon from Circular Quay, and as we were going over the Harbor Bridge, I realized that we had now crossed the bridge by car, on foot and by train. The only mode of transport left is by bike but I doubt that we’ll do that on this trip. Still, the most scenic (and my favorite) way is to cross the harbor by ferry. You see so much, in all directions. To date, riding the ferries in Sydney Harbor has been one of my favorite things to do.

It’s 11:28pm as I’m writing this, and we’re in the middle of a thunderstorm. An amazing amount of rain is coming down all of a sudden. After the heat and humidity all day, it feels GOOOOD.

Monday, 1/11/10: Down day & Freshwater Beach, Sydney

Today has been a slow day, deliberately so. We slept in a little, and Laura and Elena caught up on homework and their independent projects. In the early afternoon, we went to the beach in Freshwater, a northern suburb of Sydney.

Freshwater is a complete misnomer (no freshwater in evidence), but it is a beautifully located ocean beach with very fine sand. Apparently it is the birthplace of surfing in Australia owing to the fact that there’s a headland at each end of the beach that produces excellent surf.

I didn’t see any surfers today but the Bock and Ellis girls sure had a fun time boogie boarding. Heather and I, the stodgy middle-aged couple that we are, were happy to sit on beach chairs in our little sun shelter and watch the goings-on at the waterfront.

Sunday, 1/10/10: Ferry hopping, Sydney Harbor

Today we went ferry hopping in Sydney Harbor. On Sundays, you can ride public transportation in Sydney (trains, ferries, busses) all day for just AU$2.50 (a little over US$2.00). What great way to see the city, and probably the best bargain in a city where most things are anything but cheap.

Bill dropped us (i.e. the four Bocks) off at Greenwich, the same place where we took the Cockatoo Island ferry yesterday. In fact, the island you see in the first photo is Cockatoo Island. From Greenwich the ferry headed toward the city center, and we had million-dollar views wherever we looked. The 2nd photo below is of the downtown skyline.

Here is the Harbor Bridge, Sydney’s most famous landmark after the Opera House.

From Circular Quay, the big train and ferry hub in the Central Business District, we took the ferry to Watsons Bay, a beautiful beach suburb about 8 miles from downtown.

Watsons Bay is at the end of the South Head peninsula and boasts a spectacular beach. We didn’t have our bathing stuff with us so we didn’t stay too long, but it would be nice to come back during the week when it’s not so crowded.

The ferry to Watsons Bay (and back again to Circular Quay) goes right by the Opera House. It was fantastic getting an up-close view of what has to be one of the best-known buildings anywhere in the world. I can remember looking at coffee-table books of faraway places when I was young, and the Sydney Opera House has been something I’ve wanted to see ever since then. I felt a bit choked up when I saw I so close today. It really is as beautiful as you think!

The Opera House is located right around the corner from Circular Quay, and after we got back from Watsons Bay, we spent a good hour taking photos of the Opera House. I took a look of architectural abstracts that most people would find boring so I won’t post them here, but those were the images the Opera House “offered” to me, and that’s how I responded. Fellow photographers will understand what I mean.

Instead, here are a couple of cute pictures of Laura (with herself on the display of Heather’s camera), and Laura and Elena hamming it up.

After the Opera House, we strolled through the open-air market at The Rocks, a historic precinct of narrow streets very close to the Harbor Bridge. We saw a lot of kitsch offered for sale, but also some nicer stuff, including bowls and platters from native Australian woods. We also dashed into a few stores and saw stunning opal jewelry and aboriginal art. Would have loved to buy a few pieces but the prices were STEEEEP. One pair of opal earrings that Heather really liked was AU$1,600, and a small (maybe 11x14”) aboriginal painting on rag paper was AU$800. Yikes!

Also stumbled across the gallery of Australian landscape photographer Ken Duncan. Check out his website; his work is impressive and inspiring. Out of the many we saw, this one and this one were my favorites. In hindsight, I wish I’d bought one of this books.

After what seemed like hours of walking, our feet were tired and our throats parched, so we took one last ferry, from Circular Quay to Milsons Point right across the Harbor Bridge, and then the train from Milsons Point to the suburb of Artarmon where Bill picked us up.

These two pictures show the Sydney skyline and the Harbor Bridge from the ferry to Milsons Point.

Note to myself:  Gotta go back to the Opera House this week to take more pictures.